Water Clogged Ears
Paddler A: I've tried all the [drug store] remedies - ear drops, ear plugs, latex swim cap over ears with ear plugs. Whenever I start to practice my roll I end up with clogged ears that take a few days to clear. Has anyone else experienced this?

Paddler B: I have the same problem. In the pond, I have found that Speedo Ear Plugs work much better than other types. Even they are not perfect, though, and I consider them a real hazard on the river.

Paddler C: My doctor recommended (after seeing me for the third time in a single year) that I use a half and half mix of isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide solution. It doesn't take much (a dropper full), and it works well. It is not perfect, but works better than anything else I have tried. Submitted by Skip Morris from the net. 2/00

Sunburn and Chapped Lips
Sunburn and chapped lips are one of the risks associated with paddling. Although irritating and sometimes painful, the real danger of these afflictions is permanent skin damage and the increased risk of cancer. Paddling often exposes you to up to twice the normal amount of solar radiation due to the reflection of the sun's rays from the water surface. The solution is to carry sunscreen and Chapstick or some similar lip balm. The problem is where to carry them to that they are always handy and available, even if you forget to explicitly bring them.

Many PFDs have a net pocket with a zipper on the chest. This is a handy place to carry the lip balm but it is too big for most sunscreen containers. The trick is to save one of those small shampoo bottles you find in a hotel room. Once the shampoo is used, wash out the bottle and fill it with your favorite waterproof sun screen. Then put the bottle in your PFD pocket with the lib balm. Now, when you grab your PFD, you've got your sunscreen and lip balm. One fewer thing to worry about while getting packed. No matter where you are paddling you have both readily available when you need them. Tom Todd. 3/00

Donut Shop Buckets
On canoe camping and touring trips it is often useful to have buckets along with waterproof tops. These buckets are useful for carrying things that are sharp, that need to be kept dry, that are odd shaped, that need to be accessed quickly, or that shouldn't be crushed. I use one of these buckets to carry my Coleman lantern, fuel, and tools. I use others for food such as bread, flour, pasta, etc.

These buckets are light weight and when empty can be nested inside each other while paddling. Around camp they have numerous uses such as seats, wash pails, water transport, settling silt out of water before filtering, raising bread dough, keeping food away from small animals, and of course water fights.

Bringing along an extra cover with a large oval hole cut out allows the bucket to serve as a carry-out port-a-potty that is actually quite comfortable and reasonably high. The other cover is not a large item to pack. With a set of identical and interchangeable buckets on the river, as the food supply buckets are emptied, they can be used for the used food.

On the river, the top of a good bucket with an O-ring seal will keep the insides dry. It will stay tight even if there is a fair amount of abuse. There is always the chance that something could pop off the top so it is advisable to pack food inside a plastic bag inside the bucket.

There are several sources of these buckets. As in many cases in life, the best things are free (or used to be.) Many people use "mud" buckets left over from plastering. This are sturdy buckets but are not made of food grade plastic so you should hesitate to use them for contact with food or for handling your drinking water.

Often you can buy these buckets in a hardware store. These are also not food grade. They also have the disadvantage that they are not strong. I've seen them crack many times. The covers don't stay on very well. … And they are expensive.

I think the best source of these buckets are the Donut Shops. Unfortunately as our collective taste for donuts has waned in favor of bagels and other "less fattening" treats, the supply of buckets has also waned. I've become an expert on the buckets thrown out by a nearby donut shop.

I used to be able to get little berry picking buckets that the strawberry icing came in. I used to be able to get the" Stan's Lunch Bucket" sized bucket that had the chocolate icing. I used to be able to get the tall "mud bucket" sized buckets that had the vanilla and chocolate "crème" filling. I can still get the big, but not tall, bucket that had the "honey dipped" glazing. Most of these icings and filling are not being served by all Donut shops so the buckets are no longer available. Check out the next donut shop you are in and note the icings and fillings. If you see some of these exotic flavors, run around back or ask if you can have the empty buckets. Careful. In the summer the yellow jackets hang out in them.

Why bother with all this? Well, the buckets that the donut shops use are heavy duty, food quality, and much more reliable that buckets from any other source. They have numerous household uses such as mop buckets, potting soil, trash buckets, etc. Unfortunately some of the donut shops have figured this out and want to charge for the used buckets. OK, that's fair. You'll find they are much better quality that buckets you can buy elsewhere.

I bet you will now view the donut selection in a whole different light!!! Happy munching. Tom Todd 2/00

Care for Air Bags
Over pressure in air bags will shorten their life or could even cause them to pop. The sun beating down on the air bags (especially dark color bags) will cause the air in them to expand and increase the pressure. Keep an eye on the bags on sunny days and bleed off excess pressure. The opposite is true when a cloud cover moves in (or the rare case of your boat getting filled with cold river water) you may find the bags get cooler and deflate a bit.

Air bag pressure will also increase as you drive up in elevation (mountain passes). An occasional check may prevent bag damage. The drive home from the mountains (and cooler afternoon temps) may cause the opposite allowing the bags to deflate on your drive home and allow the bag to flap in the wind like a flag. You've probably seen the tattering effect wind has on flags. A bag constantly flapping against a harder surface can cause wear through. If you hear flapping when your driving pull over and check the pressure in the bags.

Quick air bag inflating can be done with most canister or shop vacuum cleaners. Simply connect the hose to the exhaust end and you have a high volume, low pressure blower. Using the dump valve on the air bag to fill it, makes for even quicker inflation. A typical solo end bag can be inflated in less than 10 seconds. Rod Dore 3/99

The Frugal Paddler's Flotation
Even as I wrote the article on the side flotation I realized that ethafoam will run you about $100 for minicell foam. A cheaper way out is by making it with simple Styrofoam sheets. Be careful not to select open cell (It will act like a sponge. A minor problem is that Styrofoam will break up and decompose from just rubbing against it. To make it a lot more durable make a pillowcase type cover from a durable fabric to protect it.

Air bags can cost as much as $60 each. Here is a frugal way out... I discovered an alternative when our company received a huge bag of packaging peanuts. It was 2 or 3 times the size of any airbag yet it only weighed a few pounds. The only problem was to make it durable enough so you don't end up with a "peanut slick" on the river. I made a bunch of small pillows with them by wrapping them in poly sheeting and sealing it with a Seal-a-meal. I then took about 12 or so pillows and stuffed them in a big garbage bag and then stuffed that in a big cloth bag. The result looked close to a 3D air bag weighed in at about a pound and half each and costs only a couple of bucks for the cloth. The rest of the materials was recycled peanuts and poly sheeting. Rod Dore 4/99

Maintaining your Air Bags
Let some of the air out of you air bags when storing them or traveling on hot days. Otherwise, when the air heats up inside it will rupture the air bag. Don’t store your air bags in your canoe where cats can get at them. Cats love to sleep on air bags, and of course they have to knead the air bags with their claws before settling down … settling way down. Tom Todd 3/98

Inexpensive Dry Bag?
For a cheap alternative to dry bags a 5 gallon bucket can be used for dry storage. A typical joint compound bucket has a water tight cover that will keep your stuff dry. Just one caution though, the covers have been known to pop off if stressed too much so a tie down or good old duct tape adds the extra degree of security. Covers that assure a tighter seal and screw off tops can be purchased at some outdoor stores. A bucket can also double as a seat at the lunch breaks or around the camp fire on overnight trips. Rod Dore 3/99

Slap Paddle … No Paddle
I have often seen people slapping their paddle down flat on the surface of the water for a nice "POP"' sound. I even have done it myself. CAUTION: don't do it with wooden paddles. On my last trip out two paddlers found out the hard way that a wood paddle will split vertically up the blade when you do it too hard. (I hope my repair job holds). Rod Dore 3/99

Ready, Set, Go
A quick way to get ready for paddling trips is to keep all your stuff in a plastic box. Once you have dried and cleaned up from the last trip, place all your paddling gear; throw rope, PFD, helmet, bailing bucket, dry bag, wetsuit, first aid kit, duct tape, etc. into the box and it is ready for quick loading for the next trip. The plastic filing boxes such as those sold at office supply stores for $10 to $15 are great for this purpose. Throwing all your wet stuff into it when you get back to your car after paddling keeps the car clean and dry. Rod Dore 3/99

Sandy Feet, No More
Stan Solomon showed me a quick way to avoid getting road sand all over you while you are changing before and especially after paddling. Bring along a carpet remnant or sample in your car. You can use it to stand on while taking off your wet suit and changing into your shoes. Tom Todd 3/99

Another solution to Sandy Feet No More that I have used for several years is to use a floor mat from the car to stand on. If one has them they are always there so don't have to be on the check list. Robert Guba 4/99

Driving to Canada?
If anyone plans on driving in Canada, here's a bit of information I'm sure none of us have ever thought about. Here's the law: Americans who drive into Canada are supposed to possess a wallet-sized card entitled, "Canada Non-Resident Inter-Province Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card." It includes your name, your insurance agent's name, a description of your vehicle and the effective date and expiration date of your auto insurance policy. The Canadian government requires the card as proof that a non-resident driver complies with the country's mandatory auto insurance law. Insurance agents provide the card for free. Americans who don't carry the card and get into an auto accident in Canada risk having their cars impounded until they can reach their agents in the United States.

For more information, see the Insurance Bureau of Canada web site at http://www.ibc.ca/English/auto/visitor.htm - Jim Lewis 10/9/2000

Throw Bag Ready To Go
A throw bag should be ready to use in an instant. That means that the loop on the end of the rope should be available outside the bag while not causing the rope to be pulled out of the bag while it sits in your boat. A way to avoid the rope from being accidentally pulled from the bag is to tie an extra knot below the loop knot and cinch that knot inside the bag with the drawstring on the bag. Tom Todd 4/99

Look Ma, No Knots!
I was asked on the West to write a short description of the tie-down system I use. For paddlers who hate to tie knots, this is a cheap, easy system to tie down your boat.

Needed:

Old broom stick or mop handle
½" rope
4 "S" hooks
2 dog leash snaps

Find an old broom stick or mop handle, cut four (4) pieces about six (6) inches long, if you have large hands make them longer. Drill two ½ inch holes in each about one (1) inch from each end. Thread ½ inch rope into one hole, tie a knot, then put on "S" hook large enough to fit into whatever you have on your car that you tie to....close other end of "S" hook. Thread rope into other hole on your piece of wood. Place dog leash snaps on rope with slip knot, so it can be adjusted. Put rope through other piece of wood, attach "S" hook, rope into other hole, tie knot. Make a second one.

To use, hook dog snap to bow/stem of your boat. "S" hooks to car frame or wherever you usually tie your boat. Pull up on wooden handle. Rope will tighten and not let go. This system is fast, cheap and saves tying knots in your painters. Really wonderful when weather is cold and nasty.

[Make sure your bow and stern lines are securely coiled to your boat. If they become loose and fall under your tires while driving, you will do serious damage to both your car and boat and probably yourself.] Sue Keroes 4/99

Bow and Stern Drain Holes
Often it is easier to paddle to shore and flip your canoe to empty the water than to bail it out. A handy way to make sure the water drains more completely and just a little faster is to drill a ¾" hole in the bow and stern decks. This will empty the water that runs along the inside of the gunwales and collects inside the bow or stern. Tom Todd 4/99

Foam Kneepads

Custom cut kneepads made out of ethafoam add comfort and stability to a long paddling trip. An easy way to cut the concave shape is to bend a hacksaw blade with a wire tied to the end holes of the blade. The curvature of the bend should match your knee with appropriate paddling gear on. The cup at the end can be rounded by turning the blade up as you cut. The pads can then be glued into place using a waterproof contact cement (see note below). These kneepads can be made out of the scrap ethafoam left over from out fitting the rest of your boat. Tom Todd 4/99

A note about Contact Cement: Contact Cement can destroy Royalex! Use the glue carefully and sparingly. Read this for more information. (Thanks to D. Johnson, Birmingham Canoe
Club, for bringing this to our attention!)

Gluing to your Canoe
When outfitting a boat it is often necessary to glue things in, like knee pads, saddles, etc.. Construction Adhesive is often used as it quick and easy. Under white water use and age these items will eventually need replacing. It is then that you'll find that the construction adhesive leaves a mess behind that can not be cleaned up easily. (Soaking it with kerosene or other petroleum based solvents can soften it up enough to scrape off). A better idea for gluing is to use regular contact cement from your local hardware store. It is water resistant and will hold up for years. In the event you do rip out a knee pad you are left with a smooth surface that can be cleaned and new contact cement applied. Rod Dore 3/98

Roof Racks
When tying a boat to roof racks people often tie them securely to the racks and nothing else. Ask yourself how secure are these racks attached to the car. Driving at 65 MPH will put a lot of stress on the boat and you don't want to find your boat flying into the ditch with a pair of cheap roof racks securely tied to it. There should be a line to your front bumper to hold the boat down. A line should also be tied to the rear bumper so that the boat cannot slide forward in the event of a sudden stop (like in Harry and the Henderson's). Rod Dore, 3/98

Torso Rotation Skills
To improve your torso rotation skills, practice paddling with your grip arm held straight and the grip slightly above eye level. Practice this several times on flatwater, then incorporate it in your whitewater repertoire. Bill Lowman, 4/98

Stroke Efficiency
We often hear that executing a stroke in a certain manner is more "efficient," but why is that important? Certainly most of us have enough energy to complete our trips. The benefit of efficiency is it allows you to transmit [your] maximum available power into an effective stroke, thus giving you better control over your boat when you need it. Bill Lowman, 4/98

Completing Difficult Moves
When you have a difficult move to make, keep your focus on where you want the boat to go. Do not look at the places you don't want to go! Bill Lowman, 4/98

The Cross-Forward Stroke
Most solo paddlers don't fully exploit the cross-forward stroke. Oh, we know how to do it, and we throw one in every now and then, but do we trust our crossforward enough to use it when it counts? Here are some indicators. If you have difficulty getting on a surfing wave, establishing your desired ferry angle, or placing the boat in the right place for a clean eddy turn, the reason is likely to be a crossforward stroke you don't trust. The result is that instead of using the crossforward to correct your boat angle while maintaining forward speed, you resort to a series of forward strokes and reverse sweeps. Every reverse sweep kills the momentum started by your forward stroke, and your boat ends up drifting. In big water, this will set you up for a swim when the going gets tough -- take it from me, I have plenty of first hand experience. To save yourself from my experience, practice, practice, practice the crossforward. Do it on flatwater. Use it on ferries. Use it when it's needed, even though you are nervous. Bruce Lessels once told me, "You might as well use your crossforward, because when it's needed, anything else you try is going to put you in worse shape." I have followed that advice since, and I can tell you he was right. Bill Lowman, 4/98

Bag the Biners
Carabiners are a great invention … for another sport. For canoeing, I believe that they are dangerous. The image of an outfitted paddler with a carabiner attached to the safety vest tries to portray a macho image, but to me it is an image of foolishness.

The very attributes that make carabiners great for rock climbing, make them inappropriate for canoeing. Carabiners are designed to quickly snag a rope and hold it strong enough to catch a falling person without letting go of the rope. This is exactly what you don’t want to have happen in a canoe when you’re in trouble. A line, branch, or object in the canoe can catch on the carabiner and you won’t be able to get it off, even if you know that’s what has you caught. The type that need to be unlocked before inserting a rope is not much better in that a branch or rod could snag though the hole.

Although carrying carabiners on the PFD is a major safety problem, having the quick catch kind attached to your boat is also a hazard. As you get in trouble it is possible that it will catch a belt, sleeve, or other part of your clothing or equipment drags you where ever the boat goes.

If you insist upon bringing carabiners on your canoeing trips, keep them in your dry bag for those emergencies when you might use them for pulling a boat off the river. If you need something to quickly attach equipment, water bottles and bailing buckets to the canoe, use the plastic squeeze clips that won’t catch you and will break if they do.

Remember … Bag the Biners! Tom Todd, 5/98

Holed Hulls Keep Gunwhales Whole

When putting lines in for airbags (or side flotation) people often will drill holes through the gunwales to tie into or mount eyelets. Keep in mind that the gunwales are the backbone of the boat. It is the single strongest element in integrity of the canoe. If you have ever seen a canoe without gunwales you can see how weak the hull is without them. It's like a big wobbly taco shell. Drilling holes through the gunwales will weaken them and may case a failure ("wrap around") under the strain of a broach. The proper place to tie into (against your basic instinct) is to drill small holes right through the hull just under the gunwales. Drill 2 holes about an inch apart and then make a loop with 1/8" cord. Do this about every 8" along were the bag will be. These holes will not be that noticeable and will not let in water. And best of all they will not weaken the integrity of the boat. Rod Dore, 5/98

Cam Cleat to the Rescue
How do you tow a canoe while paddling your own? Holding the rope makes it difficult to paddle. Tying the rope to your canoe takes precious seconds and then you may have a problem untying it when you need to in an emergency.

The Cam Cleat is a device used in sailing to quickly attach and detach lines. It can be used for that purpose in canoeing. The cam cleat is small, lightweight, and strong. It does not have any protruding points or arms on which you can be caught. Although it will only hold a rope in a certain direction, one can attach the rope in an instant and detach it even more quickly.

The cam cleat should be installed in the boat in a place easily accessible to the paddler. It must be attached securely to a strong member of the canoe. It has to be placed so the grip is horizontal otherwise the rope will slip out when pulled at an angle. If it is mounted on a strong thwart then one has the advantage of being able to loop the rope under the thwart and then forward so that it can pull from the front in a case where that is necessary. Careful consideration should be given to placement for towing.

Any paddler who thinks that they may be called upon to rescue someone’s boat should have one of these installed in their boat. They are cheap, nine to twenty dollars. They are very easy to install once you’ve decided where to install them. Tom Todd, 5/98

Truckers Hitch or Cinch Knot
Use the Truckers Hitch for tying the boat down to your roof rack on the car. The loop gives you a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage in tightening the rope. It also gives you the advantage of pulling down with your weight as you pull.

Click on the illustration for a larger image

Form a loop through a simple knot leaving enough rope to loop around the roof rack and back up through the loop. Pull down on the end going through the loop and once it is tight, tie off the end to securely fasten the canoe. Also make sure bow and stern lines are securely fastened. A loose line catching under a tire at speed can do serious damage to the canoe and potentially cause a very serious accident. - Rod Dore, 11/98

Painters Pop Plastic Plates
To tie on painters (ropes on the ends of your boat) a lot of manufactures provide a hole in the deck plate to tie into. This is especially true with the common plastic molded style deck plates. Take note that these deck plates are only pop-riveted in place and can be torn off if pulled on too hard. Anyone that has assisted in pulling a wrapped or broached boat off a rock knows that it takes a LOT of strain on the ropes to move the boat against the current. A more secure method is to drill a large hole (.5" dia.) right through both sides of the hull near the stems and pass a heavy duty rope through and make a loop. Most white water canoe manufactures have done this at the factory for you, but not all have. Rod Dore, 5/98

On skid plates
To insure adequate working time for the resin when applying two skid plates on your boat, mix the resin components together and pour the mix out on the two skid plates and work it in. The cure time will be slower than if you let it sit in the can. The heat build up in larger volume (such as a half a can) will accelerate the curing. If you take the time to soak it in one skid plate and try to apply and smooth it out before soaking the second you may have a problem (See boat outfitting day story). Another way to assure adequate time is to just mix up half the resin and half the hardener, but that takes a little bit of messy measuring. - Rod Dore

Bow and Stern Lines
Bow and stern lines are important for helping launch the canoe, lining down around obstructions, and retrieving a wayward or pinned canoe. Ropes used on boats are always called ‘lines’. The line should be strong enough to allow pulling a pinned boat off a rock. It would also be helpful if it was not stretchy. The length is selected to allow a good reach while lining down but not so long that someone would get wrapped in it if it was loose in the water. About 10 - 15 feet is a good length. The diameter should be large for strength and to avoid cutting into hands when being pulled. A 7/16 to 9/16 inch diameter rope feels good in the hands. I have gotten excellent service from braided rope I’ve bought at a marine supply stores. Floating Lines are easier to grab.

Attaching the lines to the boat is also important. The line should be attached through holes drilled through the canoe’s hull near the bow and stern. The line should be attached with a bowline (knot) looped through the hull. For added strength, fit a block of wood into the canoe and pass the line through a hole in it.

Don’t attach the line to a deck fitting, thwart, or though the deck plate because these are weak points and will pull off the canoe if you are trying to pull the pinned canoe off a rock. Tom Todd with help from Rod Dore and Bill Lowman 3/99

Bow and Stern Bungee Loops
Loose lines dragging in the water are dangerous. They can either snag on a rock in the river or entangle a swimming paddler after a dump. Bow and stern lines should be coiled and held on the fore and aft decks by means of a loop of elastic. Cut the hook off of one end of a short bungee cord and slide off the other hook. Tie a figure of eight knot and thread the cut end of the bungee up and then down through two holes drilled 5 inches apart through the top of the deck.. Pull the bungee tight enough to that there is no slack and knot the other end below the deck. Tom Todd with help from Rod Dore and Bill Lowman 3/99

Saddles Versus Thwart Seats
You will notice that most whitewater boats use a "saddle" for a seat, rather than a thwart seat. Sitting in a thwart seat leaves your center of gravity so high that your are unstable in whitewater. A thwart seat is dangerous in that while kneeling, your legs are hooked under the seat. If you happen to spill while in this position, there is a good change you can get trapped or hurt. When paddling tandem on the Souhegan on one of my first whitewater trips, my partner wrenched his knee seriously when we tipped on the pillow or water against Bang Rock.

The advantages of a saddle include having a lower center of gravity and having a good hold on the canoe by gripping the saddle between your legs. Tom Todd with help from Rod Dore and Bill Lowman 3/99

Protecting Your Airbags
Airbag issues seem to be a theme in recent issues of the WrapAround. I recently discovered that my airbags were developing leaks because a couple of decking and gunwale screws had rough edges and were abrading the air bag material. If the screws stick out far enough, put plastic nibs over them. Nibs are available at hardware stores. If the screw is cut off, cover it with goo such as AquaSeal. Tom Todd with help from Rod Dore and Bill Lowman 3/99

Attaching Your Airbags
Air bags need to be firmly laced into your canoe. An easy way to attach the lacing is to drill ¼ inch holes through the hull just below the gunwales at 5 inch intervals. Do not drill holes through the gunwales themselves because that will seriously weaken them. Lace the line from side to side. An additional line should be laced from the end of the canoe down the center of the canoe to a D-ring glued to the floor of the canoe.

To allow easy removal of the airbag for long travel or storage, attach plastic clips to the air bag attachment points. The airbag can then be easily deflated and removed between the lacing. The clips should not be strong. They just position the bag for inflation. The lacing holds the bag into the canoe. Tom Todd with help from Rod Dore and Bill Lowman 3/99

On Side Flotation
If anyone does white water canoeing in different parts of the country you will discover that side flotation seems to only be popular in the North East. Even more specifically the AMC. I'm not sure why., it has not caught on, but it is an extra worth adding. The pressure on a boat that is broached on a rock when it is facing up stream is in excess of a ton. The bottom of your hull will quickly meet the thwarts unless you have side flotation. Air bags can only fight this force with air pressure. The pressure can even pop an air bag making the situation worse. Rigid foam will add a lot of structural strength that could save your boat from collapsing and wrapping around the rock. Once the boat starts to wrap, it can snap (or bend) the gunwales and even rip the Royalex material. (Check out the chapter XL13 rental boat. It only had air bags.)

Side flotation will also aid in stabilizing a boat that is full of water. Air bags do nothing to stop a 'barrel roll', the most likely way of dumping your boat. Side flotation offers an upward force once it is submerged. Finally side flotation does not take up as much room as air bags. It allows plenty of room for gear for those of you that like to do canoe camping. On the down side, side flotation does make it more difficult to roll your boat, but I think that will only affect a few folks.

Side flotation is typically made from a rigid foam such as Ethafoam or Minicell foam. It is recommended to be 3-4" thick and as long as you can fit. Secure it with glued in D-rings or tie downs on the bottom and lace through the hull on the top. The back side of it should be shaped to fit in as closely as possible to the hull. Rod Dore 3/99

Paddle Materials

by Rod Dore

Selection of materials is somewhat of a personal choice. There are negatives and positives of each.

For beginners a paddle made with an aluminum shaft with a plastic blade is a good choice. They are usually the cheapest (under $20). The combination makes for a strong paddle that can last for years. The aluminum does get cold in the spring and it will not spring back if it over stressed. The blades are very durable. The biggest draw back to these paddles is the weight. On average they are heavier than most other options. Many white water paddlers use these exclusively. A good point with them is that if you loose one or bend it your only out the $20 bucks.

Wood has an excellent feel. It is warm (important for early spring paddling), it is strong (when laminated) and it has a good spring to the shaft. There are many small manufacturers of wood paddles that will custom fit a paddle for you as well. The down falls with wood are, it is a bit more expensive than other materials. The rocks of New England rivers will wear down a wood blade quickly if it does not have a rock guard edge of some type. A wood paddle will need occasional maintenance to keep it in good shape. A once a year touch up is typical. [New technology for whitewater paddles is to include a 'nylon roping around the edges of the to protect the blade from rocks. Mitchell Paddles in NH has some older designed paddles on sale: see for sale section.]

The best paddles (and most expensive) are the composites. Many are made of graphite and some made with Kevlar. The benefits of these are in the weight. They are the lightest of all and still are as tough as the heavier materials. Custom made paddles are offered in these price ranges, The have option such as handle shapes, shaft shapes, blade shapes, and specific lengths.

Overall, paddles are a personal choice. 95% of paddling is you and your technique. A $300 paddle will not make you a better paddler it only makes you a little more comfortable and hopefully a little more efficient.

Special Safety Considerations for Closed Boats

By Bill Lowman

Three things our trip leaders need to keep in mind, especially if they are canoeists leading a trip that includes closed boats (kayaks or c-1's):

For new students paddling closed boats, take reasonable precautions relative to the following -

All closed boaters must wear helmets while in their boats
Spray skirt must be installed with GRAB LOOP ON THE OUTSIDE
Closed boats should have floatation bags in the stern as a minimum.

Hints On Attaining

by Bill Lowman

“Most people think of whitewater paddling as getting down rapids in control. Yet paddling up rapids, or attaining, can be equally exciting and challenging. Attaining requires more precision than paddling downstream, since being a few inches off line can mean the difference between climbing a drop and getting rejected. Attaining is not as strength-dependent as it might seem. In fact, precise technique often wins out over strength. Climbing a rapid makes you aware of every feature, no matter how subtle, since it is often the minor advantage you gain from using a small eddy or wave that makes it possible to attain a drop. Attaining also helps you develop a can-do attitude. Seeing someone paddle up a steep vertical drop tends to open your mind to new possibilities.”*

Here are some hints to help you in attaining:

To climb a rapid, look for weak (i.e. slack current) spots
Be alert to areas of still water - they can exist where there are no apparent eddies
Conserve your energy by reading the water carefully and taking advantage of river features that can help you
The upstream current behind a small pour over can be used to accelerate the upstream momentum of your boat.
You may be able to use the dead water directly upstream of a rock as a place to “hide” from the current at the top of a difficult attainment.
“A standing wave that angles up a drop can often be the key to climbing an otherwise unattainable rapid.”*
Try to ferry from the top of one eddy to the tail of the next eddy upstream
When ferrying upstream, keep your eyes focused on your desired goal, not on the place you don’t want to go!
The angle of departure from an eddy is critical; any error in departure is exceedingly difficult to correct in the current. Take the time and effort to execute the departure angle you need.
“Carrying the momentum you gain in an eddy into the current is crucial”*
“Vary the rhythm of your strokes by paddling easily up the eddies, then taking a few quick, hard strokes just as you are about to enter the current again”*
“If you slow down or stop near the top of an eddy [frequently required when you are off your intended line] don’t try to regain speed from that position. Instead, drop back so, you have room to take at least a few strokes before entering the current.”*
There is nothing wrong with pushing off rocks with your paddle or hand; in fact, the more you can take advantage of opportunities to push off, the more effective your paddling will be. Perfect your skill in pushing off and simultaneously maintaining your boat angle.
Use forward and backward boat leans to your advantage.
Leaning back at the moment you begin to climb a drop helps your bow to rise over the oncoming current.
“Once you have crested the lip of a drop, leaning slightly forward again helps bring your boat back into a level position, from which it maintains speed better than with the stern low in the water”*
“You may find yourself in limbo for a moment at the crest of the drop. If you have gotten this far, you can often pull it off by continuing to paddle with quick, powerful strokes. To hesitate at this point is to guarantee defeat. It may not feel like you are going anywhere, but a little perseverance can often get you over the drop.”*
As always, torso rotation strokes are the most efficient, allowing you to conserve valuable energy or to achieve maximum power from your strokes

* AMC Whitewater Handbook, Third Edition, Bruce Lessels, 1994