May 2003
Volume XV
Issue 1
Abridged Edition

Boat Retrieval on the West River

By Roioli Schweiker

How to Rescue a Canoe Without a Tom Todd

Mike Jacobs, leader, Tom Todd, Bob Guba, and Laurie Ullmann and I had an enjoyable trip on the West River on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 at only 300 cfs, which is passable everywhere if you were very careful.. NO WIND. Paddling was pleasant and easy. Riffles, alternated with smooth water and class 2 rapids.

A mile or so above the covered bridge Tom found a canoe wrapped around a rock. This was an excellent rescue practice and since there was no hurry, we gathered on the nearest shore to formulate a plan. It was agreed that the far side was the place to pull from; and Tom thought he could walk out to the canoe from there, which he did. Since the water was only thigh high, he was able to wrap his rope around the boat and secure it.

Mike tied on his rope for enough length, and we carried it across to the left bank. With 4 people (well maybe 3 ¼) pulling and Tom jiggling, it came off fairly easily, and was pulled across. The Z-drag was not needed, as we had unlimited pulling power available! The leader of a teenage instruction group, which we had been leapfrogging all day, came running down with his hands full of rescue equipment, which was not needed, as we had still more rope, a saw, and Mike's Z-drag outfit. Partly he wanted to find out how we could have wrapped a boat so thoroughly on "the only rock" in an easy riffle when he had seen us run much harder things upstream.

The canoe was slit almost from gunwale to gunwale, but Tom was looking forward to trying out his new ABS repair equipment. Bob and Laurie emptied it out, and it floated with the crack, which was well to the bow of the canoe, above water. I realized, "I bet I could paddle this!", borrowed a paddle, and got in the stern. It seemed dry and stable, so I pushed off down the riffle. With all the weight in the stern, it floated lightly and pivoted on the stern. All I needed to do was rudder a little, and it was a delightful paddle. My comeuppance for jumping ship without saying "good-bye" to Mike was that I got soaked, as the heavens opened while I was waiting the foot of the riffle while Mike and Tom were putting away their rescue stuff. How many times have I told people, "Always take your canoe bag with you when you change boats!"

It paddled very well, and impressed people who could see daylight through the bottom. A mile or so downstream we left it at a road access recommended by the outfitter, and Mike graciously invited me to join him again.

How to Rescue a Canoe Without a Tom Todd

[Editor's Note: I did not put Roioli up to this.]

The best way to get a canoe off of a rock, or other obstacle, is for 4 to 6 husky people to wade out and haul it off. Lacking the people, or if the water is too deep and fast, here is the alternative plan.

Unless there is great immediacy, such as someone is pinned (and perhaps even more in this case) everybody sit quietly down and make a plan.

1. How is the boat pinned?

It is easier to work on the end which is furthest above water and/or has the least strong current against it. In our case the end closest to the bend was also in the shallowest, least strong current. This was the end closest to shore, bit it was still better to pull from the far side.

2. Can the boat be accessed?

In most cases the work and the boat itself provide an eddy, and a canoe can ferry out. Some people work from the canoe, but it may be better for at least one rescuer to climb out on the rock, if possible.

Rest the bow of the canoe between the pinned canoe and the rock, and the bow paddler can scramble onto the rock while the stern holds the canoe carefully in place. Or you can just scramble out over the point like onto a fallen true. Sometimes an additional person can be taken to help steady the canoe, work from the canoe, or also get out on the rock if it is big enough.*

3. Affixing the rope to the pinned canoe.

The rescue rope cannot just be tied to a clip or a seat or thwart. There is much too much pull on it. The rope must go all the way around the hull and be anchored by a seat or thwart so it will not slip off. Perhaps two ropes some distance apart might be used when great force is required. Be sure to have a rope on what will be the upstream end when it comes free.

If the rescuer lacks sufficiently long arms to pass the rope around the hull, roll 5 or 6 feet of floating rope around a rock the size and shape of a brick (brought with you from shore, you will not find one lying on the rock.) Add a couple of feet of slack and drop it into the water upstream of the pinned canoe. The rope should come up downstream where it can be retrieved. Perhaps you should take several rocks with you, just in case you need practice. If the rescue rope doesn't float, tie on a piece of rope with does.

4. Applying the force.

The pull should come from the appropriate shore, from as far upstream as in convenient. A good position for footing is important to prevent injury to rescuers. Those near the shore should wear lifejackets.

If it is possible for a person or persons to stand in the water and jiggle and lift the boat, it is helpful. Sometimes a pole can be used for the purpose of additional power. A Y shaped branch of sufficient strength can be a big help. This is what the saw is for. Fasten the rope to the single end put the arms of the Y solidly under the boat, a little upstream. Tension will have to be kept on the upper end while the legs are placed.

5. The rescuer on the rock may be collected in the same manner he was left on the rock. Sometimes he may hold the now unpinned canoe and ride to shore. Sometimes he must get back to shore by his own effort!

* If it not possible to ferry out to a suitable position, stretching a rope all the way across the river can help in various ways: a fixed line to ferry from for a person or canoe; giving person on shore a way to help maneuver into position. Be very careful and do not get into more trouble doing this.