August 11 to 18, 2001
By Dick & Verniel Morin
After many months of planning, the group started arriving at our house
at 3:15 a.m. on the 11th. Dave Sanford was first, followed by Dennis
Belliveau and Fred Liang. Attila Farkas arrived around 3:30. After loading
another canoe and lots of gear into our truck, we left Dover at 4:06 and
arrived in The Forks at 7:30 to meet Dave Moore and Henry Deshane. Imagine
our surprise to see Tom and Diane Sawyer at Webb’s Campground. (They were
paddling the Dead that day). From there we proceeded the rest of the 532
miles to Reserve Faunique Ashuapmushuan without incident and with minimal
stops arriving at 3 for a 4 o’clock shuttle to the Pont de la Riviere
Normandin, our starting point.
The Ashuapmushuan is a large, powerful river that one of the rangers
warned us not to underestimate. A couple weeks earlier they told us it was
running at 900 cms. Spring flow is how he put it. When we got there it was
at 600 which is still above normal for this time of year, normal being 200
to 400 cms.
As we started putting our canoes in the water, a she bear and her cub
were spotted across the river a short way down from where we were going to
camp. It was exciting to see them as she stood there on her hind legs for
us. Mark, the park ranger, told us there were lots of blueberries
available for the bears and they don’t bother people. He was right but at
that moment, it wasn’t much comfort to any of us.
Sunday was a late start-we were up at 6 and on the river by 8:30. The
Normandin was all flat water with the wind in our face until noon. At
lunch we explored the sight where the Hudson Bay and James Bay people
would meet at a trading post on Lac Ashuapmushuan. There was also a native
American settlement across the cove. Not much left, but we did identify
some graves. From there we proceeded into Lac Denault with the wind at our
back. We camped on a bluff below the 167 bridge at the beginning of the
normal Ashuapmushuan River run having done 14.5 miles that day. The area
was loaded with blueberries about as big around as my index finger. The
weather had been beautiful and warm all day.
Monday dawned foggy and it drizzled until noon. We were on the river by
8. After scouting the rapid Quartier de Biche, Dick decided we could do it
so Dave said 'go ahead.' We eddied out before the big drop to scout out
lining on the right which was possible. We then proceeded to finish the
rapid. One at a time the other boats followed. The last boat was not lined
up properly and overturned in the big stuff. The paddlers got out safely
and were rescued by the others, but the boat hung up on the rocks for
several minutes. After a quick prayer, it started rocking and came loose,
but was full of water. We were unable to rescue it before the next drop.
The swamped canoe actually self-rescued. According to the group of
Canadian rafters who got to it first, it was caught in on two rocks in a
shore eddy. They found the food bag, map case and water bottle in other
eddies and threw them in the boat after they emptied it and drew it
further up the bank. The only thing lost was the trash! We camped with
this family group of rafters several times throughout the week. Due to the
swim and the fact that campsites are too far apart, it was a short day –
only about 9 miles.
Tuesday again dawned foggy, but cleared by noon only to drizzle again
after we set up camp and washed clothes which never dried the rest of the
week. Due to the mishap of the previous day, we were a little more
cautious from that point on. This day included a long portage which some
of us lined. There were also some II/III rapids (and when they say III
they mean it) that we ran. We arrived at a group campsite at 3 p.m. and
were later joined by the rafters who had rescued the boat the day before.
They did a lot of singing and drinking, but respected our early to bed. We
had come another 15.5 miles.
Wednesday the weather again was foggy and drizzly. Shortly after
putting in, we spotted a curious young bear. He would look at us, go to
head into the woods, come back and sit on his rump and watch some more
before he finally scooted off into the woods. At first it was flat water,
then lots of I and II’s, several II/III and one IV which we portaged for
about ½ mile. We saw some Canadian paddlers – 3 tandems (a Freedom and 2
Legends) and 2 solos that ran right through the big stuff. Boy, could they
paddle! They had air bags in the ends with their gear in two barrels and a
pack in the center. We camped on a small sand bar only to be joined once
again by the rafters about 6 p.m. while we were having dinner. There were
about a dozen or more of them. Once again this night it rained for a short
period of time.
Thursday we paddled for a while before a short portage which some of us
lined with some difficulty at Rapide l’Engoulevent. By 3 p.m. we were at
Chute Chaudiere (Chaudiere Falls which means boiling) and had the shuttle
take most of our gear. Dennis had managed to carry his boat and a pack
most of the way before he met up with the shuttle and Dave Sanford had
carried all his gear. We camped midway down the falls. Words can’t
describe these falls! What a magnificent sight! The awesome power of the
water! Once again we were joined by the rafters who proceeded to bathe au
natural with no concern for who was in sight! (None of the guys seemed to
mind.)
Friday we finished the portage and were on the river by 8:30. While
waiting for the rest of the group, I spotted our only moose. This lower
section below the falls was the most spectacular (except for the falls) of
the whole trip with cliffs along the sides and rapidly moving water. We
covered 13 miles of river which included a serious class II and were at
our campsite by 11:15. Rain was coming in and there was a split on whether
to continue the last 12 miles or to camp. Dave Sanford felt that we should
camp but the decision was made to go on and it poured for about 2 hours.
It would have been a wet night but it would have given us another morning
when the river was always spectacular. There was some concern if any of us
dumped how we would warm up but thankfully that didn’t happen even though
there was some class III and a close call. We had paddled a total of 97.5
miles in 6 days.
By the time we arrived at the take out where we thought we could camp
at 3, we were all soaked. The take-out was not suitable for camping so the
drivers went for their cars. Shortly before the take-out, we had noticed a
cabin with a wood fire. A Canadian gentleman who could not speak English
came over to the group and offered us “café” which we accepted. He
proceeded to invite us into his house, gave us coffee and blueberries
which he picked for a living, and allowed us to warm up and dry off some.
The charades we played to communicate were interesting. His younger son
put a gerbil under my nose (I think to shock me), but it didn’t work. We
raised three sons ourselves.
A vote was taken to stay in a motel as it was pouring again. Mark, a
young man at the reserve headquarters called and made reservations for us.
He was always very helpful. After a hot shower, we went to the front of
the motel to the restaurant for dinner. While eating it was thundering and
lightning. I for one was glad we weren’t camping! As we ran across the
parking lot to our rooms, we realized it was flooded. After a week of wet
feet, I was glad for my dry shoes but now they were wet again!!!!!
Saturday we met at 6 am for a more leisurely ride home. On the Maine
Turnpike, a young woman cut out right in front of us. I thought we had her
broad side, but thank God, Dick was able to slow down enough to miss her.
We arrived back here safe and sound around 6pm to transfer the canoe and
gear to the cars that had been left here.
We certainly appreciated all the work Dave Sanford, Dave Moore, Dennis
and Attila did planning the meals. Dave Sanford taught us much and
exhibited excellent leadership. I can’t say enough for the river and the
camaraderie we experienced on this trip. Of course, this beautiful wild
river was a great part of the whole experience. We certainly recommend it,
but it’s not a walk in the park!
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Map of Ashuapmushuan River courtesy of Natural Resources Canada
Hydro Power Lines crossing the upper reaches of the Ashuapmushuan(TT)
The bottom drop of Chutes Chaudiere(TT)
The Bottom of the Gorge just above the Chute Chaudiere drops(TT)
The drop above the final drop of Chutes Chaudiere(TT)
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